Arctic Sweden – Sarek 2017 – Part Two

Day Five

Day 5

Last night’s pitch had been particularly mozzified. Luckily, it hadn’t been too warm to eat in the tent. Geoff is particularly skilled at cooking in the porch by sticking his hands through a mega small opening in the inner door zip. Having freeze dried food which only needs boiling water adding to it obviously helps!

We set off quite early today with the plan to get a few more miles under our belts, initially following the route back through the forest alongside Stuor and Unna Dahta.

Geoff did take a wrong turning at one point, but I managed to shout him back before he’d gone too far.


On reaching the junction with the Kungsleden again, we stopped for a long lunch break before turning north east, to explore in that direction for a couple of days.

The weather suddenly turned bitter while we were eating. I put my jacket on and my hands were so cold, that as they warmed up when we started moving again, my finger ends hurt like mad.

And then the rain started. And got heavier. And got heavier. We covered a couple more miles until we were alongside the eastern end of Stuor Dahta before deciding we’d had enough for the day. By this time, the area wasn’t conducive to flat, grassy camping spots, but we found somewhere that would do.

Thank goodness for outer-pitch-first tents! I dread to think how awful it would have been trying to pitch in those conditions in our old Voyager that we used to use in the States.


I went down to the lake for water.

It was only about 2pm and the rain wasn’t due to stop till after midnight. It never let up.

We played I Spy for a while, but Geoff is so awkward – constantly using abstract nouns – and even verbs. He won, 4 games to 3, but only by stretching the rules.

The next game – The Chain – was much better. Far less competitive. Anyone who listens to Radcliffe and Maconie will know this one. You say a song title and the artist, and the other person has to come up with another song plus artist that links to it in some way. (You can’t have the same artist twice on the run.)

…..’Boston Tea Party’ by the Sensational Alex Harvey Band >>> ‘Dellila’ by Tom Jones (do you know the link there?) >>> ‘I Won’t Back Down’ by Tom Petty >>> ‘Man In Black’ by Johnny Cash (do you know the link there, too?)……

This was much more fun and kept us occupied till tea time.

We couldn’t think of anything else to play after that.


Day Six

Day 6

Thankfully, the rain had stopped by the time we set off this morning. We contiued along the Kungsleden, aiming for the Parte Hut.

This was actually one of the roughest sections of the whole trip.

The wet rocks and tree roots made for unbelievably slow going.

We never intended to spend the night at the hut, but called in to drop some rubbish off.

The warden was very pleasant and chatty, gave us a drink of strawberry juice – it was rather delicious – and suggested we might be able to pitch our tent up a bit further round the lake. (Geoff was suitably shocked at how much it would cost us to pitch at the hut, around £20 per night, so that wasn’t going to happen.)


So we carried on just a tiny bit further and found the most sloping pitch of the trip.

For once, though, the mozzies didn’t stop us having a relaxing brew outside.


Day Seven

Day 7

I’d slept surprisingly well, considering I’d had to belay myself from a nearby tree to stop me sliding out of bed.

Today’s plan was to leave the tent where it was and walk with day stuff only, to a high point about 4 miles away.

We were aiming for a saddle in between two tops – Favnoajvve and Huomnasj.

It didn’t disappoint.

A group of reindeer made the moment complete.

Once again, walking back to the tent in the afternoon, we felt quite privileged.



Day Eight

Day 8

Another dry day, and we aimed to get back within two or three miles of Kvikkjokk.

When we reached the really-rough-underfoot section again, we continued on where we’d left off, with The Chain.

……’Blue Hawaii’ by Elvis Presley >>> ‘Wild Thing’ by The Trogs (get it?) >>> ‘Love Is All Around’ by Wet Wet Wet >>> ‘With A Little Help From My Friends’ by Joe Cocker……..

And tonight’s spot won the prize for the most mozzified pitch of the trip, by far.


Day Nine

Day 9

And so, we walked the last couple of miles into Kvikkjokk, timing it just right for lunch in the STF Hostel.

I was so ready for that meal. Eight days of freeze dried food does take its toll and I’d been fantasizing about chips for days!

The night was spent pitched in the village and we were up the next morning in time to catch the 5:20am bus back to Lulea. Then it was back to the Arctic North Hotel once more, before flying home the next day.

A grand trip, with lots of great memories.

Geoff’s ramblings about part two of our trip, are here.

Posted in Backpacking Trips | 20 Comments

Arctic Sweden – Sarek 2017 – Part One

Of course when you book a ‘cheaper’ flight to somewhere, you don’t always get to go the most direct route. Three flights it took us to get to Lulea – Manchester to Oslo, Oslo to Stockholm then Stockholm to Lulea. None of them were much more than an hour long though, so we still arrived early evening.

The logistics of having to buy gas before the next leg of our journey meant that we had to spend two nights here, so the following day we explored the town, trying on loads of Fjallraven trousers in the two big outdoor shops. I also had a good look at every different model of Osprey rucksack I could find – after all I might be thinking of purchasing another….

We still only ended up buying gas though!


Day One

Days 1 and 2

Having set the alarm for 6am, we caught the 8am train for a two hour journey to Murjek.

From Murjek, we had another four hours on a bus to finally get us to Kvikkjokk, our jumping off point for Sarek, and being mid afternoon by then, we didn’t plan on walking very far to our first camp.

Just over two miles got us to a nice enough spot. Some mosquitoes about, but nowhere near as bad as last time I was here in 2015, with James.

Day Two

We had a variety of possible routes planned, all around a particular circuit. Plenty of slack in the plans meant that in theory, anything could easily be altered, depending on how fast/slow we were moving or how hard/easy the terrain was.


Since being rather poorly a few weeks back however, with suspected Lyme Disease, I was still having the occasional Difficult Day, so principally to cater for me we turned the trip into more of a Slackpack than a Mega Challenge, ending up doing essentially two ‘out and back’ trips rather than the original circuit taking in the bush whacking jungle of either the Rapa Valley or the Gallakjahka Valley.

We’d started our route out of Kvikkjokk on the Kungsleden, but hadn’t gone far today before we turned off and left it for a few days, seeking out the wilder terrain of Sarek itself.

It was warm and the mosquitoes were out in force. Paramo jackets were very useful as a bit of armour, but our Mosiguard repellent (all natural, not Deet) is surprisingly good. We’ve used it successfully for many years.

The trail took us through a forest, past the two lakes of Unna Dahta and Stuor Dahta, but the water was hardly ever visible, due to the denseness of the vegetation.

You certainly don’t rush anywhere around here, constantly having to be aware of where you’re placing your feet. Tree roots and boulders abound.

Eventually reaching the Boarek bogland by mid-afternoon, we started to look for a decent pitch for the night.


Amazing views and a fresh breeze – the mosquitoes were in abeyance.


Day Three

Day 3

A lively wind overnight heralded a bit of a change to the weather. Cooler and more comfortable. Fresh snow on the distant high tops.

It’s a good three miles across the bog, before arriving at the first big river crossing.

The crossing is actually where two lakes join and, although wide, thankfully doesn’t have too much of a current.

Once on the other side, we were back in trees again. Slowly climbing through them, we by-passed the Sami village of Boarek. Once again, the vegetation is so dense that you can hardly see any of the settlement, or even any paths through to it. We did, however, suddenly come across a sign fastened to a pole.

Not knowing anything about Alex Hamberg, we read it then walked on by, musing at how few people would be likely to be passing here over the next few days anyway. Probably only two or three each day I suspect!

We continued on our way, slowly climbing, now over completely trackless terrain above the Sami settlement.

We were initially aiming for the river of Gasskagarsajagasj, hoping to find an easy way across.

Wandering up and down, an easy crossing was not immediately obvious, so we decided to follow it up higher where we could see snow. Maybe there would be a snowbridge. Sure enough there was and, crossing it, we noticed plenty of reindeer poo. Obviously it was their way over the river as well!

The weather was getting wilder and wetter by now, so we decided to stop for the day. Our normal pitching routine is to do the tent outer together, then Geoff does the inner and starts to sort stuff inside while I go and filter all the water we need for the night and the next morning.

I couldn’t see any easy way down to the river for water, but found a tiny pool in the rocks at the side. That would have to do.


Day Four

Day 4

Well, it wasn’t the best night’s sleep – the weather had been wilder than a wild thing! The tent had taken a battering, but had stood up well to it all – as it should have done of course. Morning brought another grey day with more fresh snow dusted on the tops, but at least the wind had dropped a lot.

A group of reindeer appeared. Maybe they wanted to cross the river and we were in the way! Geoff crept outside to try and capture some photos.

The light wasn’t so good.


We breakfasted, then re-crossed the river and went back in search of the sun.

This time when passing the sign about visiting the research cabin of Axel Hamberg, we decided to go and see what it was all about.

Apparently, this man had been a professor at Uppsala University, studying glaciology, geology and all sorts of other related things, including meteorology. In 1895 he had built a cabin in Boarek and spent 36 years there, scientifically exploring the high alpine area of Sarek. Since then, the Sami people – along with other scientists connected with Laponia Heritage – have looked after his research cabin, keeping it in pristine condition. This was the first time it had ever been open to the public.

We followed the arrow into the trees, found a group of people sat around a campfire, and were given a lovely, warm welcome. One of the guys was actually living in the cabin for the few days they were all there, the others were camping. We were shown around.

It was absolutely wonderful inside.

We were then invited by the Sami couple from Boarek who were there, to join them all for coffee and cinnamon buns. What a privilege. A space was created around the fire and a reindeer skin was placed on the ground for us to sit on. Coffee and buns were served, and we stayed there for about an hour discussing all sorts – from Sarek, to weather, to families, to Brexit and everything in between. Amazing. It was definitely a highlight of the trip.

All too soon, it was time to move on.

Back over the first river crossing again before finding a very mosquito-ey pitch for the night, a couple of miles further on.


Geoff’s ramblings about the first part of our trip, are here.



Posted in Backpacking Trips | 31 Comments

Sleepover On Kinder

We’re extremely lucky to live where we do. In as little as 3.4 miles from our front door, we can reach an idyllic little spot on the slopes of Kinder, for an easy night out. Of course if you wish, you can make the journey there and back as circuitous and as long as you want, turning it into a much bigger venture, but Pebbles and I just fancied a quick sleepover.

It was pretty hot, so it was a good chance for Pebbles to try out her Swamp Cooler Vest underneath her panniers. It worked well.

Last time I camped by this ruin I was completely on my own and I have to say that despite being a lovely spot, once it had gone dark it seemed to take on quite a spooky atmosphere. I was sure it’d be fine this time though, with Pebbles to scare off anything lurking in the shadows.

But at around midnight, when Pebbles suddenly woke me up with a menacing growl routine, aimed at something outside the tent, she put me right on edge. Clearly unable to settle again, she needed to go out and check what was going on. I finally gave in and went out with her for a bit of a prowl around. The sky was dark and star filled, and I could clearly count 4 planes lining up for landing at Manchester Airport.

Pebbles, however,  wasn’t interested in the beauty of the night. She just wanted to stand – rigidly staring at something in the vicinity of the big tree near us.

So, still feeling less than totally relaxed, we returned to the tent. Thankfully, after a few minutes on Twitter – complete with both ghost and crazed maniac jokes from friends who were still up and awake back in normal reality land – I found myself chilled, laughing and ready to sleep again.

The rest of the night passed peacefully and we awoke to a scorcher of a morning.


Posted in Backpacking Trips | 25 Comments

TGOC 2017 Video

I’ve made a short video from some of my TGOC photos. If you fancy watching it, it’s thirteen minutes long and the music is by King Creosote.

Posted in Bits and Pieces | 16 Comments

TGOC2017 – Shiel Bridge To Aberdeen, Part Five

Day Thirteen – 21.1 miles

Mark and I both have the same plan for the finish, to take the Deeside Way from Ballater to Aberdeen. He plans to do it over three days though, and I want to take two days.

Looking at my map the route is all marked, apart from the section between Aboyne and Kincardine O’Neil. Unless there’s some waymarking on this stretch, I’m assuming that you have to go down the road here.

I’m ready quite early and end up setting off before Mark.

It’s very quiet.

It’s very pleasant. The occasional commuter cycles by.

For most of this morning, I’m walking through a distinctly rural area.

Sadly, I see some remnants still not sorted, from the floods a couple of years ago.


I’m starting to understand why I’ve heard that the Deeside Way makes a very pleasant ending to the Challenge.

It runs parallel to the A93 for a while, but I don’t really notice it, there’s too much greenery around. I come off the track briefly for a mid morning break at Dinnet. I notice our van parked up – Geoff’s obviously gone for a walk from here with the dogs!

I don’t go in, but buy an ice cream from a nearby cafe.

Continuing on my way, I have Second Lunch next to a gliding club, then eventually reach Aboyne.


As I suspected, when I pop out onto the road in the town, all waymarking for the route just stops. I’ve nothing marked here on my map either, so I try and find what looks like a bit of a route through on the south side of the A93. This doesn’t work – a housing estate has been built there now. So, in the absence of anything more obvious, I assume you’re expected to go down the road.

This doesn’t work either. It’s far too busy and after being nearly squished several times, I retrace my steps and plan a route along some minor roads and tracks to the north of the A93 – a bit of a long way round, but hopefully safer.

I can hardly believe it then, when almost as soon as I’ve turned off onto one of the ‘yellow’ roads, I suddenly pick up waymarks again, on what looks like a brand new section of trail! Back onto a pleasant track, through some woods and I’m soon safely on the outskirts of Kincardine O’Neil.

A sudden heavy downpour has me reaching for my waterproofs and as I pass the local church, I spy Mark sitting in the porch, having a break. I go in and join him. We inevitably have a bit of a discussion about the difficulty of finding the route out of Aboyne. He also had a bit of difficulty, but looking at his map, he obviously has a newer version than me, as part of this section is marked on his.

I’m aware that Rich Flint is also on the trail, a few miles behind us – Geoff having already sent me a text earlier to say that Rich was drinking tea and eating cake with him in the van. I send Rich a message then, to warn him about the route problems here, just in case he has an older edition of the map like me.

And it transpires that John Boy is around, too! I get a message from him saying he’s currently having scones and tea a few miles in front of us, at Potarch. It’s almost busy!

Mark and I carry on together now. We discover that we’re both aiming for the same camping spot tonight, so with the wonders of modern technology I screen grab our intended camping spot from Viewranger and message it to Rich, in case he wants to join us there later.

The last few miles pass quickly with Mark to chat to. Geoff is in the car park when we get there. Mark pitches his tent outside and joins us for a meal. An hour or so later, Rich turns up. He pitches too, then Geoff cooks him some dinner. We have a Challenge Party.


Day Fourteen – 20 miles

Rich is planning on taking the Deeside Way all the way to Aberdeen today, Mark is going as far as Peterculter and I want to get all the way to the coast as well. To make it easier for Geoff – who’s meeting me at the beach – I decide to leave the Way at Crathes and pick some quiet roads up across to Newtonhill, instead.

I’ve got about 20 miles to do again, so I set off early-ish. It’s obviously going to be a hot one, but the first few miles are in shade.


I leave the Way behind properly at Crathes and start walking down the B9077, and the heat is becoming quite intense. The road is also unbelievably busy, both cars and wagons skimming past me. I’m not happy. In fact, I’m pretty scared.

A couple more miles and I turn off onto the smaller roads. These are much quieter and I breathe a sigh of relief.

I’ve not gone too far when to my amazement, Geoff appears, driving towards me. He stops. He’s been driving on my route down to the coast to wait for me, and has been totally thwarted by a new road/motorway that is being built. The roads I’m planning on walking down are closed.

Suddenly, I feel totally weary. Suddenly, I don’t care if I junk the whole thing. I ring control and speak to Judith. She chivies me on, she won’t let me junk it. I can get taken back to where I left the Deeside Way at Crathes, and start again for the afternoon.

So, that’s what I do. And as I start again where I left off on the Way a few hours back, and see Mark coming towards me, I begin to think this is meant to be. And as we round a corner a couple of minutes later and come across Rich again, I’m sure it’s meant to be.

But I’ve lost miles and I’ve lost time, so there’s no way I’ll make the coast now today. I decide to stop at Peterculter for the night, like Mark is doing.

The three of us carry on together, enjoying each other’s company. It’s early evening by the time we reach Peterculter and I’m not feeling brilliant. It’s been hot, I’m not sure I’ve eaten enough and I’m tired.

Day Fifteen – 8.7 miles

A good night’s sleep and I feel determined again. I set off about 8:30 – I’ve not many miles to go, but Geoff has to then drive me to Montrose to make sure I sign out before 5pm.

Shortly after setting off, the Deeside Way has to cross this new bypass. A Pelican Crossing is in operation here…

An hour or so down the way, I sit down for a break and can hardly believe my eyes when I once more see Mark coming down the trail towards me. We team up again.

We’re into the centre of Aberdeen, in Duthie Park, before we know it. The trail is surrounded by greenery all the way in, so we hardly notice being in the city.

A cafe stop is had and then we set off for the headland. Mark is aiming for Girdle Ness Lighthouse, I’m aiming for a different car park, further round.

It’s another hot day. Crossing the River Dee, I get a phone call from Geoff.

‘You won’t believe this, but the car park where we’ve arranged to meet is a construction site and the beach is all fenced off.’

You couldn’t make it up.

We arrange to meet at another car park on the other side of the headland…

And finally, I’m there. I quite like the bustling port backdrop to the photos. My dad was in the Merchant Navy, my Grandad ran away to sea when he was young and I’m related to Grace Darling. I’ve always felt a kind of affinity to ships and the sea.

Euphoria hasn’t quite set in yet, but I do feel a bit pleased with myself.

We can’t waste time though. A quick lunch, Geoff drives me to Montrose and I end up having the infamous pleasure of being the very last person to sign out.



Posted in Backpacking Trips | 34 Comments

TGOC2017 – Shiel Bridge To Aberdeen, Part Four

Day Ten – 14.9 miles

I have a shuffle about of plans. My feet are still not perfect, but they’re improving. In an ideal world, I would now have a couple of days’ rest to sort them out properly but I haven’t got that option on the Challenge. And successfully finishing the Challenge is now uppermost in my mind. It’s more important, in fact, than any route choice I make.

My original plan for the next two days takes me over Bynack More and onto Cock Bridge. I decide to alter this for something I assume will be easier walking underfoot, maximising the healing potential for my feet. It will mean a lot of road walking on the second day, but that doesn’t bother me – the flat surface of tarmac is currently more comfortable than a rocky path.

I set off from Loch Morlich then, initially heading for Nethy Bridge.

I’ve actually done this route before, many years ago. It’s very pleasant, passing An Lochan Uaine and Ryvoan Bothy, before heading into the Abernethy Forest.



It’s too early for First Lunch, so I don’t call in at the bothy. Last time I was here, there was snow down and a herd of reindeer pottering about. No such luck today.

The forest is quiet and peaceful, and I find a spot in here for First Lunch.


About 20 years ago, I stayed in a hotel in Nethy Bridge when I was doing a Winter Skills course, but I’d forgotten what a pretty village it is. It also has a shop – which is open – and I buy some more Dairylea Dunkers (the Bread Stick variety this time) and the obligatory can of Coke, and have Second Lunch.

Picking up the minor road which crosses to the A939, I continue on a few more miles. I’m surprised at how pleasant and quiet this road is. Good views and reasonable grass verges, too.

I pass a few B&Bs on the outskirts of Nethy Bridge and there are several spots (complete with small streams) further up on the road where I can pitch a tent quite happily. I don’t object though, when Crowther B&B services turns up. And it seems just a bit daft to pitch the tent outside the van…

Day Eleven – 17.4 miles

Geoff is panicking. He’s worrying about my Road Day. In contrast, the thought of it isn’t bothering me at all. I tell him I’ll be fine.

In fact, the A939 is nowhere near as busy as you might expect and there is once again easy grass verge walking for much of the way. The weather is fresh and dry, and the views are far ranging.


I’m happy, content and singing.

Shortly after Bridge of Brown, I find a nice track which cuts a corner off.


A couple of miles before Tomintoul, I find a footpath which takes me into the town, avoiding the main road.


Yesterday, James told me that Tomintoul has loads of good eating places so I’m looking forward to a nice lunch. As I enter this ribbon development though, it has all the appearance of some deserted town out of a Spaghetti Western.

I’m hungry now and it feels like the town goes on forever, but all of a sudden it opens out and The Old Fire Station Tea Room comes into view.

Lunch is delicious.

I speak to Geoff on the phone. He is still worrying. There is an alternative to the road which I can take from here – along the side of the River Avon to Inchrory, and then the track to Cock Bridge. It looks good, but taking that route would make the distance for today 24 miles, instead of just over 17. I don’t want to walk that far today.

So, I continue on my merry way. The sun has come out and there’s a pleasing breeze. I now have to climb over the pass at Lecht. I’m not a fan of the look of ski resorts in the summer, but nevertheless, still feel good when I reach the top. I call in for an ice cold Coke, then a German couple who’ve cycled up ask me to take their photo in front of the sign.


From here, it’s not far to Cock Bridge. I’ve had a Good Day. With hindsight (a wonderful thing) I reckon my feet would have been fine on my original route over Bynack More. But for now, I’ve got a real buzz knowing that I’ve just walked nearly 18 miles today, and not had a single problem with my toes.

Day Twelve – 13.3 miles

I’m now back on my planned route and heading for Ballater. It’s promising to be a hot day.

Following the Old Miltary Road today, involves more tracks and paths than tarmac. It’s delightful.



Another Good Day. I see no one walking at all, until another Challenger rolls up while I’m eating Umpteenth Lunch, only a couple of miles out of Ballater. This is Mark. We have a short chat and agree to meet up again later – we’re both spending the night at Ballater Campsite.


Geoff and the dogs are waiting for me at the site. And shortly after I arrive, Mark turns up. He pitches near us, and joins us for afternoon tea and cakes. Very civilised!

Posted in Backpacking Trips | 11 Comments

TGOC2017 – Shiel Bridge To Aberdeen, Part Three

Day Eight – 10.1 miles

I have a very luxurious night at Newtonmore and sleep really well. Aiming to set off around 9am, I prepare my feet for the day in my new sock liners.

They won’t be a miracle cure today, but they feel lovely and I know the blisters will now stand a chance of starting to heal.

I’ve only a short day planned and the weather is once again dry and sunny. First off, I mooch along to Kingussie. There’s a cycle path all the way, so I don’t have to dodge the traffic.

I am already forming a plan for First Lunch. I’m going to raid the Co-Op in Kingussie and then sit in the park in the sunshine for a break. As I come out of the shop, I hear a cheery shout.

‘Hey, Chrissie! We’re looking for somewhere good for breakfast, have you found anywhere?’

It’s Rupert, who I shared a room with in Fort Augustus.

‘No, I’ve just bought some stuff to eat in the park. Good luck!’

I drink my Coke and eat a whole packet of Jaffa Cake Bars, in the sunshine.

Setting off again, I meet another guy. Apologies, but I can’t remember his name. We walk, and chat, together for about half an hour, before heading off in different directions.

Pottering on in the sunshine, I stop for Second Lunch on the edge of the forest, before picking up the track to take me to Uath Lochan.

My destination for the night is reached mid afternoon. It’s rather pleasant and I find a great spot for the tent right next to the water.


I filter all the water I need for the night, and settle down to a brew or two before evening.

A handful of people wander around the loch – it’s obviously a nice ‘after-work-wind-down’ spot I reckon, but it’s nevertheless still peaceful. I have a good night’s sleep.

Day Nine – 13.5 miles

It rains overnight and is still raining when I wake. I’m glad of my standard routine of collecting all the water I need on an evening, so I don’t have to faff getting any more for breakfast.

I’m sure a sopping wet fly sheet adds about a kilogram of weight to your rucksack!

A route is planned through the forest to take me to Loch Morlich, where I’m meeting up with Geoff and the dogs.

About half a mile down one of the tracks though, I find my way barred by a huge, fallen tree.

It looks problematic but I determine to try and crawl through the branches. Once I get up close though, I can see there’s maybe 3 or 4 more huge, downed trees across the track after this one. Accidental, or on purpose? Not really having a choice, I backtrack, look at the map, and give in. If I go round on the road, it’ll be nearly a mile shorter than my planned route anyway.

I hit a bit of a low point. Everyone’s allowed a low point occasionally.

Trail Magic does exist, though. Just as I round a bend, having eaten First Lunch, a couple of backpackers appear. After my encounter with John Boy the other day, I realise that they probably are Challengers, even though we’re walking in opposite directions.

We stop for a chat. They should be going through the Lairig Ghru, but with the weather being inclement, have plumped for Glen Feshie instead. Hence their southerly route today. And a bit more chat, reveals that one of the guys is a Boxer Nut like me and is using his Challenge as a vehicle for raising money for Boxer Rescue. Coincidence or what!

This all cheers me up enormously, and keeps me going for the rest of the day.

And what a welcome I get at Loch Morlich! Hubby and dogs all greet me as if I’ve been away for months.

Posted in Backpacking Trips | 10 Comments