Lake Superior is the largest of the five Great Lakes and its coastline stretches for 2,726 miles. The Coastal Trail however stretches for a mere 40 miles, along part of the section that is in Ontario – not far north of Sault Ste Marie. Easy-peasy, we thought…
My parents had lived in Ontario for quite some years and in 2001 their home was a small town called Elliot Lake, about 2 hours drive east of Sault Ste Marie. In the October of that year we paid them a visit for a couple of weeks and decided that we would do a bit of backpacking while we were there. This Lake Superior Coastal Trail seemed to fit the bill. We had a four day window when nothing else was happening, so we made plans.
The trail is rated as ‘very difficult’ or ‘very demanding’. We took very little notice of this – after all, how difficult could it be? – but paid lip service to the information and decided that we would take it easy and only do a 28 mile section in the time we had available. The weather was very autumnal, with some snow showers forecast, so we wouldn’t rush.
My parents offered to drive us over and drop us off at a point on the trail known as Gargantua, then we would walk southwards and they would meet us 4 days later at Sinclair Cove.
Anyone who’s been to this part of Canada will know that distances between towns and cities are huge, and measured in hours or even days. It was a 2 hour drive from their house across to Soo (local speak for Sault Ste Marie), and then another hour north from there before we got to the turning up an un-made road, that would take us the 10 miles west to Gargantua Bay.
Problem no.1 – the track across to the bay was closed to public traffic. We had no alternative then, but to walk those 10 miles before we could even start on the trail proper!
I seem to remember having a row – quite why I don’t know, it was nobody’s fault – but we were soon laden up and on our way. It was easy enough walking and we were making reasonable progress, when a vehicle appeared from behind. A Ranger in a pick-up! A very kind Ranger in a pick-up! Were we doing the trail? Did we want a lift to the bay? Did we need asking twice…?
So, about 20 minutes later, we were deposited at Gargantua and set off south on our short trek.
We’d planned an easy stretch for this first afternoon. 3.6 miles to our first overnight spot at Rhyolite Cove.
The countryside around here is not mountainous, just rolling hills covered in all sorts of trees. However, we soon realised just how dense those trees can be. Sounds a bit dramatic I know, but many times over the next few days I wondered if we were doing something similar to soldiers bushwacking through the jungles of Borneo…
The trail stays as close to the shore as possible. The shore is extremely rocky, with lichen everywhere and has the potential to be unbelievably slippy. In retrospect we likened it to Grade 1 scrambling, only horizontally! When an occasional insurmountable cliff or bluff did come along, the trail would dive back into the interior of the forest, where it was nigh on impossible to see and follow, and we began to wish we were carrying machetes. On at least one occasion we lost the trail altogether for about an hour – a very weird, nerve-wracking experience.
All these delights were still to come though.
All we had to do this first afternoon was walk 3.6 miles. It took us 3 and a 1/2 hours.
Rhyolite Cove was a pleasant enough spot, and we found a place to pitch the tent.
It was getting both dusk and chilly by the time we got there, and we decided to light a fire. Now neither of us seem to have the skill of Ray Mears when it comes to lighting fires, so we’d taken a packet of firelighters with us. Foolproof! We went through the whole packet, plus oodles of twigs and Silver Birch bark, but all to no avail. How Ray Mears does it, I’ll never know…
The ensuing night was pretty cold – almost down to freezing – and we woke the next morning to rain and strong winds.
Luckily the rain turned to intermittent showers, but it did make the rocks absolutely treacherous.
There were also times when the trail was so close to the lake, that when large waves started crashing over the rocks we began to wonder just how long it would be before one of was swept into the freezing cold water.
It took us all day to do about 5 miles.
We finally got to a camp spot.
It wasn’t essential that you camped at one of the marked sites, but in practice it was just about impossible not to. The foliage and undergrowth was so dense that – unless you were carrying an axe or two – you needed a place that had already been artificially cleared.
Our spot for the night was next to another small cove.
By this time, we were starting to get a little concerned. Over the previous two days we hadn’t even covered half of our intended distance. There was no way we were going to get to Sinclair Cove on time to meet my parents. I could just imagine my mother’s reaction if we weren’t there when they arrived…
But we’d forgotten about Trail Magic! It turned up later that evening in the form of two guys from Michigan – Rick and Will. They were doing the trail in the opposite direction to us and had only been on it for one day, but had already had enough. They were contemplating heading back home.
They managed to pitch up near us for the night and said that if we hiked out to where their pick-up was the next day, they’d take us down to Sinclair Cove. Fantastic!
So, the next morning we walked a further couple of miles to a spot known as Baldhead River. From here, a side trail would take us out on a much easier trail for about 3 miles, to the car park where we were going to meet up with Rick and Will again.
We still weren’t going to be let off that easily though! The first mile along the coast that morning took us an incredible 2 and 1/2 hours to complete.
I will freely admit it was a relief when Baldhead River finally came into view. Time for lunch and a bit of a chill-out.
The side trail out to the car park was known as The Orphan Trail. It was heaven! It was normal! You could walk upright without resorting to all-fours!
I did have one screaming moment though when I nearly stood on a snake. I’m not really that keen on snakes…
And so, by late afternoon we were being whisked off at high speed, down to Sinclair Cove. It was still another 24 hours before my mum and dad were due to meet us though, so we went down to the beach to look for a likely spot to camp up for the night. There was nowhere – and I mean nowhere – where you could have possibly put a tent up in the trees, but hey, the beach itself made a super atmospheric spot.
We weren’t far from the spot where the freighter the SS Edmund Fitzgerald had sunk back in 1975, and I found myself gazing out at the lake, quietly humming the song that Gordon Lightfoot wrote about the tragedy.
It was a peaceful end to our trek – one that had proved more of a challenge than we ever imagined, but had nevertheless given us great memories.
And as for the official ‘trail rating’ – we gave it a new one. We rated it ‘bastard’.
15 thoughts on “Lake Superior Coastal Trail – Canada”
Oh Chrissie, it is a good thing I wasn’t sipping coffee when I read your trail rating – I would have choked and spurted coffee all over laughing so hard. An incredible,compellingly-told story that had me on the edge of my seat. The beautiful foliage in your photo backgrounds don’t give any clues to how difficult your hike was. Thank you for sharing your brilliant storytelling skills and photographs. Your blog posts are always a delight! :^)
Thanks Karen, glad you liked it! The autumn colours were beautiful, even though we were over in Canada later than we should have been. We had originally been booked on a flight for the 12th Spetember (the day after 9/11), but of course all flights were cancelled for several days, and we were then rebooked for 11th October.
I reckon I could surf the web for a long time before I came up with another post about this trail. Fascinating read and must rank pretty high in my new category of “inland coastal walks with disproportionately difficult underfoot conditions” (think it needs a catchier title).
We used to have relatives in Ontario (sadly all passed away now). Used to have a house on the shores of Lake Ontario between Hamilton and Niagara and a farm out west of Toronto. My first trip abroad was there as a 9 year old. Happy memories
I think that title’s great! Just trips off the tongue 🙂
Actually I know the area around south Lake Ontario fairly well too – my parents lived for a while in a town over there called Dunnville. I’ve a funny feeling they used to go shopping in Hamilton…
My relatives lived in a little place called Winona. Lake Ontario was 100 yards away. I remember trips to Niagara, the Welland canal, Dundas castle, Black Creek Pioneer Village, Toronto, all very exciting for a 9 year old. We also did a trip in a massive RV around Eastern Canada and the US (Algonquin, Ottawa, Quebec, Maine and the White Mountains). Great trip
Spookily enough we were looking at the photos at the weekend at my Dads 80th Birthday party. Some highly embarrasing ones of me at 9 and 14 – no I’m not going to scan them and post them on my blog 🙂
Funnily enough I’ve got a retro Algonquin backpacking post on the cards too, from 1998. Even more photos of when I used to be able to eat as much of anything I wanted and never put an ounce on, never mind pre-broken ankle where 16 weeks enforced inactivity played even more havoc with the fit of my clothes….
And I remember enjoying the Welland Canal more than Niagara!
Blimey, how can a trail be so difficult? Well done on keeping the smiles going!
It would probably have suited you down to the ground Paul. That ranger who picked us up was telling us how the army use it sometimes as a training area for soldiers 🙂
Haha … I’ve grown out of all that nonsense now 🙂
A fantastic part of the world Chrissie…Would you have tackled it if you had known what it was going to be like 😆 . In 2006 we drove from Thunder Bay to Schreiber, half way along the north shore of the lake, to visit relatives. It’s a wild country with, as you mention, huge distances between settlements. We were only there for a few days but I wish we had stayed longer. Having seen the coastline I can well imagine the difficulty in walking! It’s one trip that will stay with you.
I noticed on another blog your Grace Darling connection so here is a lighthouse fact from Lake Superior….The glass surrounding the lamp was shattered one winter in one of the lake storms…from flying ice as it was whipped up by the waves! 😯
It is wild isn’t it Ken? I know everyone thinks of places like Banff when they think of Canada, but there’s a lot to be seen in other areas too with all the wilderness they’ve got.
I really don’t know if we’d have done the trail if we had known how hard it would be – quite possibly, but would have made more realistic plans about meeting up again with my parents!
That’s an amazing lighthouse fact! We have been over there in the winter, so I can quite believe it. I’ve always been fascinated by the Great Lakes, ever since since learning about them in geography as a teenager. I got quite taken with the Edmund Fitzgerald story too, and have used it with classes in schools. It always seems to go down well.
Well,reading that will save me making the mistake of ever actually walking it.!
Enjoyable in retrospect I would imagine 🙂
Definitely one of those trips that you look back on with more fondness than you felt at the time!
I always worried about Canada walking on account of all that thick forest – that’s always put me off.
That slippery rocky beach-walking sounds just like walking round Wastwater on ‘the Screes’ in the wet (although The Screes walk is obviously much shorter). I did that with Richard in horrifically wet weather and it took us literally hours to crawl across all the huge, greasy boulders with nasty gaps between them on all fours. Some of the blocks are as big as cars. In order to see properly, we had to keep our hoods down too and so water was pouring down our backs. It took my phone 3 days to try out!
Hi Carol, not done the Wastwater Screes myself, but you certainly make it sound like a similar experience!
To be fair, the side trail which we walked out on was fine, even though it was still forest it was a ‘proper’ made up kind of trail like they’re very fond of over there. But I do have memories of crawling over the rocks on all fours, desperately trying to keep my footing 🙂